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Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster, by Dana Thomas
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Product details
Paperback: 384 pages
Publisher: Penguin Books; Reprint edition (July 29, 2008)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0143113704
ISBN-13: 978-0143113706
Product Dimensions:
5.5 x 0.8 x 8.4 inches
Shipping Weight: 12 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.4 out of 5 stars
155 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#81,705 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
What should we do with fashion? Should we keep it small and artisanal or should we make it available for the mass?How to balance exclusivity with increasing profit for shareholders is tricky. I certainly would not want to be in the shoes of the head of fashion houses or the CEO of a fashion corp.i hope Ms Thomas will write a follow up on how fast fashion, street fashion, and fashion bloggers have influence brands and brand management. Now a days I see more and more cooperation between brands and bloggers/editors. I find that I am influenced by seeing what the fashion bloggers wear and what street fashion photogs capture. I know more about the name of a purse and recognize certain trends this way, much more than fashion mags and editorials.
I read this book a while back and a lot of the things in it are still in my mind. It has changed the way I think and shop. This book will make you think twice about the luxury products you buy. Having just entered the job market and being in need of good quality wardrobe staples this book was right on time. I've learned that some so called luxury products aren't even worth the wrapping they come in. While other products still retain the quality of a hundred years ago. Being a seamstress I already had suspicions about some of the things called luxury nowadays and this book has not only confirmed my suspicions but informed me greatly.One big thing about this book is that it is big on history. Many famous houses' histories are detailed in this book and while you might feel it a little boring at times, I think it contributes very much to the bigger picture.If you are trying to become a more conscientious shopper like myself, also watch the documentary "The True Cost".
Top reviews sum the book up pretty well. It is a very informative history of luxury production, and goes into quite a lot of detail on the formation of the main luxury houses and follows them through their transition into modern growth-focused companies. It also goes into a lot of detail on how international consumers (particularly in Japan, China, India, and Russia) have influenced the industry. The non-trivial amount of typos throughout the text (kindle edition) was a bit annoying, but overall the writing was definitely readable (it is not in academese). I wish that there was a follow-up chapter as it has been about a decade since this was published, so if you are looking for the most up-to-date information, this is probably not your book.
Dana Thomas, writing as a well informed journalist, provides an entertaining expose of the burgeoning luxury market. She provides detailed profiles of the world's most sought after brand names and how they have transformed their industry from made to order to made in China/India/Russia.The book is well written and avoids any technical jargon. The anecotes and first hand research is admirable. She definitely put her time and energy in researching famous luxury houses and provides some interesting commentary on how things are changing.I would highly recommend this book to anyone wishing to learn about the behind the scenes business of famous luxury brands and the "democratization of luxury."
A must-read if you are: a connoisseur of old school luxury items (artisanal couture type) OR a throwaway fashion type who never saw much difference between the faux and the fine handbag OR the international traveler or culturally curious person who wonders about the definition of luxury as it crosses state boundaries in the global marketplace.... finely researched, well presented in a highly readable style. A truly insider view. I've had a personal boycott against LVMH since reading it a few years ago. highly recommended.
If luxury is available to all - does it cease to be luxury? This is the primary argument of Dana Thomas' fascinating examination of an industry that tends to defy rational consumer behavior (but who said we consumers were ever rational!). She has thoroughly researched the subject and the book is replete with facts and figures embedded in a narrative that reads more like a novel. Given it is written in 2007, there are some statistics or trends that will have been tested by our economic troubles, however, the primary premise and other key facets of the book remain true and relevant. And what overwhelms is the author's curiosity and nose for appropriate detail.It is equal parts history, sociology, and brand and business strategy treatise. Overall, it is a compelling indictment of how the luxury industry has evolved from artisans to staggering brand behemoths presiding over a $157 billion industry (35 brands control 60% of the business). As Thomas explains, "The way we dress reflects not only our personality but also our economic, political, and social standing and our self-worth." Luxury brands have leveraged this insight and rolled out calculated marketing strategies to feed our desires and insecurities. And we have responded appropriately pursuing luxury to differentiate ourselves.The author defines the subject, "Luxury wasn't simply a product. It denoted a history of tradition, superior quality, and often a pampered buying experience. Luxury was a natural and expected element of upper-class life, like belonging to the right clubs or having the right surname." Yet, soon, in the interests of profits, luxury companies, "turned their sights on a new target audience: the middle market, that broad socioeconomic demographic that includes everyone one from teachers and sales executives to high-tech entrepreneurs, McMansion suburbanites, the ghetto fabulous, even the criminally wealthy."This democratization of luxury made the goods accessible to more and grew the top and bottom lines. However, as Thomas concludes, this eroded all that made it special in the first place. She argues that Louis Vuitton now "has a logo as recognizable as the Golden Arches". Business leaders who control these brands "have shifted the focus from what the product is to what it represents". Francoise Montenay of Chanel believes, "Luxury is exclusivity. At a minimum, it must be impeccable. Maximum, unique."I enjoyed the histories of many of the luxury brands, characters featured like Bernard Arnault and Tom Ford, facts such as Charles Frederick Worth being among the first to stage fashion shows and the first to put a signature label on his clothes, pros and cons of brand licensing, designers becoming superstars, the always staggering practice of counterfeiting, the vintage market, and the impact of outlet malls.In terms of the book's premise, Tom Ford says, "Luxury fashion brands today are too available, everything is too uniform, and customer business too pedestrian." I suggest you draw your own conclusion by reading this tremendous book which is available to all but that will be read by a few.
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